How Adidas and Stella McCartney redefined athletic wear
Adidas x Stella McCartney models practicing Yoga, showcasing the new collection, NYC 2006
Today, we have become accustomed to the marriage of sportswear and luxury fashion, with designers like Kiko Kostadinov and his long-standing collaboration with Asics, Wales Bonner and Adidas, or designers with labels that are more fundamentally built on this aesthetic, like Johanna Parv. These two areas within fashion, however, didn’t always share as much common ground.
The shift towards a more fluid relationship between luxury fashion and sportswear truly began in the early 2000s, with designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Mihara Yasuhiro, as well as what Neil Barret and Prada were beginning to do in the late 90s. Often overlooked, Stella McCartney is one of the key designers responsible for this design shift.
Stella McCartney graduated from Central St Martins in London in 1995, and quickly stepped into the role of creative director for Chloé in Paris in 1997. Continuing to develop her skills through romantic silhouettes and her signature playful graphics, she worked here until 2001, which is when she launched her namesake label.
Adidas by Stella McCartney SS2011 Launch
Stella McCartney by Stella McCartney built upon her work at Chloe, refining and honing in on tailoring elements as well as pursuing a more elegant, minimalistic aesthetic. It was these skills and design details that acted as the foundation for her later collaboration with Adidas. An overarching idea consistent with this is Stella’s commitment to innovation on a grander scale: not simply reimagining the design of a garment but more so reimagining the effect of that garment. This innovation is what sparked her partnership with Adidas.
Adidas by Stella McCartney Elfat (Source : dizitalger)
September 2004: Adidas announces Adidas by Stella McCartney
At the time, Adidas was already exploring and experimenting with the relationship between luxury fashion and sportswear. Yohji Yamamoto acted as their first partner in 2001, with a dedicated Y3 label born one year later. Stella McCartney's approach to sportswear was strikingly different, however, with much more of a movement and body-first focus: a crowning of function above all else.
Launch of Adidas x Stella McCartney (2004)
Women's sportswear and athletic wear in particular was seen to be at a point of stagnation at the time.
“It's all baby pink, candy-floss, baby blue, head-to-toe. What grown-up woman wants to look like an Eighties teenager ?” - Stella McCartney at the September 2004 launch.
Stella McCartney x Adidas 2005
The collection that started the collaboration introduced us to a range of highly functional garments that pushed women's sportswear in a whole new direction.
Unconventional panelling, ultra-lightweight fabrics and beautifully y2k silhouettes, Stella had shared her vision for the modern woman : sporty and sleek, drawing upon her love for technical details in a new light, fresh from her usual tailoring-based approach.
“I wanted to create athletic clothes that were stylish and high-tech at the same time.”
— Stella McCartney, February 2005, at the launch of the first collection.
Although now this seems like standard, it was truly pivotal at the time.
Adidas x Stella McCartney 2005 by Susi Auszinger
Campaigns and shoots continued to refine this idea. The above shoot, shot by Susi Auzinger, features models captured in motion, a choice that highlights the dynamic nature of the garments and emphasises functionality, especially in the way it showcases the lightweight fabrication choices.
To me, this collection is successful in the way it opts for unusual panelling that is inspired by human anatomy and movement patterns. Reminiscent of Tony Spackman’s work with Nike, the garment design is driven, first and foremost, by the wearer: how they move and interact with the world around them.
Adidas x Stella McCartney 2006 NYC
New York City Spring/Summer 2006
2006 saw this idea explored again through the practice of Yoga. Models were placed in huge glass and steel boxes along the streets of New York City, wearing the clothes whilst doing Yoga poses, movements and stretches. The final result is a kind of interactive art installation, leaving passers-bys entranced. The layers of glass and reflections complement the sleek sporty silhouettes and colours perfectly.
The immersive effect of the performance was truly impactful, setting the stage for the collection beautifully.
Adidas x Stella McCartney 2006 NYC
The collection featured is a continuation of her first, with a cleaner and more toned-down colour palette: sage greens and muted pinks. Lightweight white nylon pants were paired alongside a range of technical jersey tops. Sleeveless hoods and buttoned pants highlight the uniquely movement-inspired silhouettes and construction details.
Adidas x Stella McCartney 2007
As the collaboration developed, the direction became clearer. Stella began drawing inspiration from more specific sports and activities. Her growing love of Ballet inspired the 2007 collection, which lent its flowy and dynamic nature to the silhouettes and garments, crafted on the need for the wider range of motion needed for a performance based on pattern and movement.
Adidas x Stella McCartney 2007 (IG : ttlonline_)
London Fashion Week 2009
Stella McCartney’s Adidas Spring 2009 collection brought her sports influence and pushed it to its extreme.
The runway was transformed into a huge gym. Olympic athletes were on trampolines, gymnastics beams and equipment as well as tennis courts, all wearing the new collection. Ultra-light gathered jackets were paired with leggings. Mesh-panelled tank tops were worn alongside loose, cropped yoga pants, all in a range of bright, bold yet clean colours. Like all the collections up until this point, the garments were designed for maximum movement and freedom. Spring/Summer 2009, however, was the most successful in illustrating this idea to its furthest extreme.
Stella McCartney and Adidas first began their partnership in 2004 and have been actively redefining athletic wear ever since. Their collaboration still exists to this day, with new collections being developed. Even though Stella and her team stay continuously pushing boundaries (in particular with the use of environmentally sustainable materials), there will always be something special about her early years with Adidas and the way she managed to change the world of athletic wear.
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