Kiko Kostadinov: The Genius climbing the ranks

Kiko Kostadinov is undoubtedly one of the most influential designers of recent years. Despite his growing popularity, he still maintains that underground vibe, remaining somewhat niche.

However, nothing in his background pointed to such a destiny.

Born in Bulgaria, in a small town where culture and fashion were almost nonexistent, Kiko’s story is nothing short of incredible.

Childhood

Kiko grew up in a working-class environment in Bulgaria. His mother was a housekeeper, and his father worked in construction.

During his childhood, his only connection to fashion came through his uncle, who lived in London and occasionally sent clothes to Bulgaria. At 16, Kiko left his homeland to study computer science in London. It was there that a passion for fashion started to take root.

He became inspired by designers like Yohji Yamamoto or Rei Kawakubo.

Being in London, he aimed to get into the world’s top fashion school, Central Saint Martins, which had produced designers like Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Philo, and John Galliano.

The school rejected Kiko's application

However, Kiko’s application wasn’t strong enough, and the school rejected him. In the meantime, he worked as an assistant to other designers and as a stylist to gain experience.

Two years later, he applied again, and this time, he was accepted. This shows that even a designer as talented as Kiko had to try more than once before succeeding.

During his studies, he had the opportunity to work for Stussy on an editorial project for a magazine. The brand later approached him to design exclusive pieces for its 35th anniversary, creating about 20 unique items in a deconstructed style.

Before Asics, it was Hoka

In 2016, after finishing his studies and receiving funding from the British Fashion Council, Kiko presented his first menswear collection in June 2016 alongside other graduates of Central Saint Martins.

Even then, his style was already distinctive: minimalist workwear, very thought-out and, notably, paired with Hoka sneakers.

Before collaborating with Asics, Kiko was already a big fan of Hoka, even though it hadn’t yet cemented its place in the fashion world.

In another reality, the Asics x Kiko collaboration might never have happened if Hoka had taken him under their wing earlier.

Inspirations behind Kiko's work

In January 2017, Kiko Kostadinov officially launched his eponymous brand. This marked the beginning of something significant.

Kiko is known for blending various references, whether from cinema, art, or design, but he also draws heavily from his family background.

For his Spring/Summer 2018 collection, he took inspiration from the character Francis Dolarhyde in Manhunter, with models wearing masks similar to the character's.

Kiko, Japan & workwear

Japan is a country that has deeply inspired him, and it’s no coincidence that he chose to open his first store in Tokyo.

The distinctive style of construction workers in Japan (and in the World), which is particularly strong, has had a significant impact on his work.

Given that his father also worked in construction, this influence has only reinforced the very workwear, utilitarian aesthetic that is still present in Kiko’s designs today.

Here are a few pictures of workers taken by Kiko Kostadinov. They are a huge source of inspiration for him… almost an obsession.

Kiko, creative director for Mackintosh

In November 2017, historic Scottish brand Mackintosh appointed Kiko as creative director. He would gain valuable experience there, with his Mackintosh 0004 collection drawing inspiration from the industrial-style artist Richard Serra, as well as the futuristic uniforms in the 1997 film Gattaca.

He also looked to Giuseppe Penone’s work and the Arte Povera movement for color inspiration. This highlights the depth of research and the eclectic sources that inform his work.

GEL-BURZ 1: already a legend

2018 was a turning point for Kiko, as Asics took notice of him and asked him to create his own model, the Asics Gel Burz 1, available in three colorways.

The success was immediate.

Romain, one of the founders of the famous store The Broken Arm, told me that when the model dropped, everyone was interested in it: people from the fashion world, but also older individuals with no connection to fashion for example.

The design was just right, it could speak to everyone.

Even today, I still consider it one of his best designs and one of the best collaborations in Asics’ history.

The birth of Kiko women

In 2019, Kiko expanded his brand with the introduction of a women’s line, managed by the talented sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning, both from Central Saint Martins (Deanna being Kiko’s fiancée).

It’s another turning point for the designer, it was the missing piece. The two sisters and Kiko will present incredible pieces from the very first show. What they will offer, particularly in footwear with Asics, will allow Kiko Kostadinov to reach an entirely new audience.

Asics x Kiko: the perfect combo

Behind Asics, it’s been a successful partnership, with collaborations and successes rolling in. In 2020, Asics offered him a new contract, asking him to create 10 new designs per year with his creative studio. This is why there’s a distinction between the collaborations directly done by Kiko Kostadinov and those involving his studio, where his involvement is less direct

In 2023, the collaboration between Asics and Kiko continued with the launch of the Novalis line, which began with the Gel-Teremoa and later the Gel-Styrax (a.k.a the best Mule ever).

This line aimed to reinterpret Asics classics while continuing to experiment with footwear design.

He's been ahead of the game all along

Kiko Kostadinov has collaborated with brands like Heavn, Hysteric Glamour, Levi’s, CP Company or Camper.

He is now one of the most renowned designers and, above all, a visionary.

He doesn’t just follow trends, he has his own style, and that’s why he’s so respected. When I look at models like the Gel-Sokat or even the Ballet Hybrid, he was already ahead of everyone else…